SquareMeal Review of
White Hart Barnes
This grande dame of the Thames could be a Navy galleon at dock, complete with elegant verandas and belvedere terraces (blankets and hot-water bottles provided). Following a chic refurb by landlords
Young's Brewery, the vast ground-floor Canon bar is the place to sup hand-pulled ales alongside snacks of black pudding sausage rolls, pig's ears and Scotch eggs – plus fish and chips, game pie and
other informal dishes. Meanwhile, nu-Edwardian meets New England in the upstairs dining room, which is currently the belle of Barnes. MasterChef finalist Tom Whitaker's fancy menu might
feature anything from Laverstoke mozzarella with char-grilled chicory, sorrel and deep-fried anchovies to gurnard with seaweed, celeriac and bacon cassoulet or pheasant with ‘smoke and hay’, swede,
cavolo nero, girolles and truffle, as well as desserts including plum mille-feuille with rosemary ice cream. Well-priced wines kick off at £16.