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Riding high on its foodie reputation, this re-born Devon village boozer still has an affectionate pubby feel, with original beams, an old fireplace and a proper bar for the drinkers – although the emphasis is now firmly on inventive high-end cooking (Michelin-starred to boot). Following Anton Piotrowksi’s move to Plymouth, the kitchen is now in the hands of his development chef Luke Fearon, who helped to devise many of the must-have dishes on the original menu: don’t miss the ‘little warmer’ of braised oxtail with haricot blanc velouté and puffed wild grains or stone bass served with Wembury sea vegetables, pickled kohlrabi and Brixham crab. The West Country’s food heroes all contribute, and the result is a menu far removed from your average Devon pub grub – anyone for breast, heart and faggot of local duck with duck-fat chips and foie gras gravy? Also expect wacky desserts such as ‘Treby’s dropped the carrots’, and save room for the impressive West County cheeseboard.
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