The Treby Arms 22

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Squaremeal Review of The Treby Arms ?

Anton Piotrowski hit the headlines when he was joint winner of MasterChef: The Professionals 2012. Now he and his wife are doing great things at this re-born Devon boozer in a village a few miles from Plymouth. The place still has an affectionate pubby feel, with original beams, an old fireplace and a proper bar for the drinkers, although the real emphasis is now on Anton’s inventive, high-end cooking (Michelin-starred to boot). The West Country’s food heroes all contribute to the Treby’s larder, and the result is a menu that’s far removed from your average Devon pub grub – anyone for smoked paprika porridge with pickled alexanders? Otherwise, expect the unexpected in the shape of miso-and soy-glazed gurnard with parsnip and Marmite purée, crispy noodles and sesame powder or pork jowl with greengages, damsons, trompettes, potato purée and burnt apple sauce, ahead of palate-expanding desserts such as yuzu tart with fennel sorbet, cucumber and crystallised dill flower. We’re also impressed by the 15-strong West County cheeseboard. 

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Essential Details for The Treby Arms

  • Cuisine: Gastropub
  • Area: Devon
  • Price: £55
  • Wine: £22
  • Champagne: £45
  • Lunch: £18/23 (2/3 courses) Mon-Fri

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