SquareMeal Review of
The Treby Arms
This re-born Devon village boozer still has an affectionate pubby feel, with original beams, an old fireplace and a proper bar for the drinkers – although the emphasis is now firmly on inventive high-end cooking. Following Anton Piotrowksi’s move to pastures new, the kitchen is now in the hands of his development chef Luke Fearon, who helped to devise many of the must-have dishes on the original menu. He also knows how to “mix ingredients unexpectedly” without going over the top: don’t miss the ‘little warmer’ of braised oxtail with haricot blanc velouté and puffed wild grains or chicken terrine with smoked hazelnuts, pickled shimeji mushrooms and fresh truffle. The West Country’s food heroes all contribute, and the result is an inventive repertoire far removed from your average touristy pub grub – anyone for Cornish crab and scallop with green apple, seaweed and wood sorrel or yeast-glazed Sladesdown duck breast with boudin and summer herbs? Also expect wacky desserts such as a trio of single-origin chocolates or a ‘bikini bottom’ with pineapple and lime. Wines are taken seriously too.