SquareMeal Review of
The Three Compasses Dalston
The new landlords here also run Machine No.3, a sharp Homerton cocktail lounge, but this no-airs 19th-century taphouse is a markedly different proposition. The interior isn’t much altered – the distressed-wood bar and claret plush survive – though now a more genteel clientele is ensconced within. The attraction? Hackney, Gypsy Hill, Five Points and Beavertown craft brews, among beers that also include gluten-free Estrella Damm; a dozen wines with few over £20; Negronis and Bloody Marys for £7.50; and street food from a regularly rotating cast of suppliers. The latter might include Claw’s crab and samphire, arancini, or barbecued octopus, veggie or chicken burgers. Sunday roasts (from street-food stalwart Papa Dez) and brunch are served at weekends when black pudding hash (£7.50) and smoked pancetta sarnies could appear. Some things never change, though, so you’ll still find board games, darts, Friday soul nights and live sports on ‘the biggest screen in Dalston’.