SquareMeal Review of
Not far from the ruins of the West Pier, The Set rips up the hotel restaurant rule book, ditching the usual steaks and salads in favour of playfully inventive seasonal dishes. Pull up a pew at the open kitchen and choose one of three set menus – a snip at £40-£45 for four courses plus a couple of surprise bites (homemade chicken nuggets are always a highlight). The young chef-owner Dan Kenny, who cut his teeth at Brighton’s well-respected Ginger group of restaurants, takes a progressive approach to flavour and texture. Purées, powders and ash all make regular appearances in dishes that change weekly.