SquareMeal Review of
The Seahorse Restaurant
This well-liked seafood restaurant has the kind of warmth you might associate with a bedded-in, family-run eatery on an Italian backstreet – not a Devon waterfront. Eating here is always a real pleasure too. Proprietor and fish guru Mitch Tonks has positioned himself as the natural successor to Rick Stein’s crown in these parts, and he certainly knows all about freshness. Much of the daily catch comes from nearby Brixham, and the kitchen treats its seasonal haul with due respect: scallops are roasted in the shell with white port and garlic; fillet of turbot is paired with broad beans and peas; hake is dressed with romesco sauce and garlic vinaigrette. Elsewhere, Dover sole, monkfish and red mullet are grilled over the fire, alongside Tuscan-style cuts of beef with Barolo sauce. Italy also looms large when it comes to desserts such as zabione with walnuts and frutilli or roasted figs with Moscato grappa and amaretti ice cream. The £20 ‘locals menu’ offers terrific value, and the extensive fish-friendly wine list is vigorous in its support of European vineyards.