The Seagrass

Squaremeal Review of The Seagrass ?

Dreamed up by four foodie friends, this self-styled ‘part-time squatters’ restaurant’ is camped in Manze’s old pie and mash shop on Islington’s Chapel Market. Inside, the long dining room with its handsome Victorian tiling and low-hanging lights has generated quite a buzz with the ‘kooksters’ who pack its high-backed wooden booths to share stylish plates of seasonal game and fish over corkage-free BYO bottles of wine. The three-course menu (£30) changes weekly: on our visit, plump mussels came nicely accentuated by a sprightly leek and horseradish sauce, while tender venison haunch with redcurrant jus and triple-cooked chips provided a moreish combination of sweet and salt tones. To finish, an inspired, soufflé-like sponge with a marshmallow centre and a salted caramel was a plate-licking homage to the Mars bar. If you don’t mind the offbeat, ‘make do and mend’ approach, there’s much to applaud here.

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The Seagrass

The Seagrass

74 Chapel Market ,London N1 9ER

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty


by   platinum reviewer (152)

Feb 2013

2 of 2 people found this review helpful

Editor's pick Forget pop-up restaurants; they are like so last week. As for permanent joints based on the street food van-based original; I mean pleaze. That was literally Wednesday’s craze. No, the hippest thang now is the squatting restaurant. Not crouching down, but taking over a daytime place in the evening and doing something totally different. Manze’s Eel, Pie and Mash (not to be confused with Manze’s Pie and Mash, or possibly even Manze’s Eel Pie and Mash) has been on Chapel Market for over a century,...

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Richard E.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty
  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 7
  • Atmosphere: 7
  • Value: 9

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Essential Details for The Seagrass

  • Address: 74 Chapel Market, London N1 9ER
  • Telephone: 07902 015200
  • Website:
  • Opening Times: Thurs-Sat 7-11.30pm

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