SquareMeal Review of
Diarist Samuel Pepys would have been familiar with the notorious address of this riverside hostelry. In the 1600s, boatmen ferried libertines from here to Bankside ‘stews’ (bordellos) opposite. Today the former warehouse’s windows afford fine views of The Shard, while its bright, washed-brick interior owes much to the classic noughties wine bar. Chilean Sauvignon and Merlot head a dozen wines by the glass (from £4), and the list of £8.50 cocktails includes lychee and rose Martini and a smooth Woodford Reserve maple-syrup Old Fashioned. To eat, snack on lemon pepper squid, Scotch egg, or lamb meatballs with tzatziki; share a meat or vegetarian platter; or tuck in to the lunch/supper menu. Here, mushroom and Stilton quiche, or more hearty braised pig’s cheeks, might launch proceedings, followed by equally robust wild boar bangers and mash, or roast sea bass with green-vegetable risotto. Pepys would doubtless fancy the puds: tart, anyone?