SquareMeal Review of
The River Café
My favourite place to go for a special occasion”, says one admirer of The River Café, while others are quick to praise the “stunning views” across the terrace and river – “especially on a sunny day”. But this place is also a year-round winner, with a colourful wood-fired oven standing proud in the crisp white and blue space, and a menu of “spectacular” food and drink inspired by the artisan traditions of Italian regional cuisine. Seasonal ingredients are paramount here, and we suggest homing in on the salads, pasta and anything from the aforementioned oven – perhaps chargrilled squid with fresh red chilli and rocket or hand-cut malfatti with boozy slow-cooked pheasant, fennel and pancetta ahead of, say, veal shin in Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo with risotto bianco and gremolata. After that, plump for one of the indulgent gelati, some regional cheese or pannacotta with grappa and pomegranate. It may be “getting ever more expensive” (especially if you plunder the list of stellar Italian wines), but fans still think “everything’s wonderful” here.