SquareMeal Review of
The Red Lion By Santa Maria
Perennially popular, feted Neapolitan pizzeria Santa Maria has quadrupled the table space at its Ealing branch by annexing The Red Lion pub next door. Thankfully, new landlords Angelo and Pasquale have left the boozer’s handsome old dark-wood interior unchanged. So walls still display posters for the likes of The Ladykillers, many of whose stars drank here in the 1950s (Ealing Studios is opposite). These days, ales from owners Fuller’s provide the lubrication, alongside European Pilsners and inexpensive fizzes and wines (over a dozen by the glass). The southern Italian menu kicks off with starters such as aubergine parmigiana, caponata, and big-boy meatballs with ’nduja and ricotta. Sauce made with San Marzano tomatoes is key to the 16 saintly pizza toppings: Maria (with garlic and oregano), Francesco (mozzarella, artichokes, courgette, aubergine and Parmesan) and salami-fest Caterina among them. For a summer finale, enjoy Pimm’s and tiramisu in the pub’s courtyard garden.
The Red Lion By Santa Maria is recommended for