Still doing a roaring trade with customers from the nearby Picture House, the tiny Rapscallion seems to have lost some joie de vivre, maybe because of the demise of its sister restaurant across the road. It’s an ideal spot for breakfast & brunch, but in the evening drinkers tend to outnumber diners by a large margin, & the place can seem claustrophobic. Still, a meal here can be fun & the short global menu – featuring the signature salmon & noodles, along with the likes of rib-eye steak & proper puddings – delivers some impressive results, given the size of the kitchen. The wine list could do with a rethink, but you can always fall back on the cocktails. Booking essential: there are only about half-a-dozen tables.