SquareMeal Review of
The Princess of Wales
Rescued, refurbished and treated to a large dose of TLC, this once-depressing tavern is an indicator that Clapton is ‘the new Victoria Park’. Out go gnarly punters you suspect might have been on
first-name terms with Alf Garnett; in come Mâcon-Lugny, McHenry Hohnen Shiraz, draught ales from Meantime and Sharp’s, plus Aspall cider. Child-friendly, dog-friendly and a whole lot friendlier on
the eye with its smart grey and pastel tones, The Princess of Wales owes its renaissance to Geronimo Inns (now part of Young’s, whose beers are also available). A big choice of Med-accented food
includes stone-baked pizzas from the in-house oven, pints of prawns, pastas, aubergine parmigiana, steak sandwiches and chicken wrapped in pancetta with sage butter, plus assorted puds. Alfresco
tables by the waterside are a draw whenever the sun shines on Hackney Marsh and its environs.
The Princess of Wales is recommended for