SquareMeal Review of
The Phoenix Bayswater
Touristy Queensway and its environs are not the most fertile hunting ground for those hoping to find great London pubs. But the refurbished Phoenix (risen from the ashes of the drab den of yore) now at least offers capital craft ales that are brewed in the capital: Sambrook’s Wandle, Fuller’s London Pride and Twickenham Naked Ladies, for instance; along with Euro lagers such as Estrella Damm on tap. The wine list is pedestrian in comparison, though most bottles cost less than £20. A please-all menu contains nachos, wings, curry, and burgers (steak, pulled pork or the vegetarian ‘Bellissimo’ burger), as well as classic English grub such as steak and ale pie or Sunday roasts. The pub’s new look – wooden panels, tiling, leather armchairs and all – is an anodyne assembly, picking up on long-in-the-tooth trends that are better executed elsewhere, but there’s solace to be found in the beer.