SquareMeal Review of
Frequented by office workers during the day and locals at night, this tastefully shabby boozer from the Geronimo Inns chain nails the personal touch – note the photos of the Physic Garden and
Chelsea pensioners about town. Elsewhere, rich mustard tones, scrubbed tables, shelves of books and assorted Country Living knick-knacks create the mood in the warmly decorated dining room, where
upbeat dishes could range from endive, pear and Stilton salad with candied walnuts to kedgeree or confit duck with braised lentils. There are also ‘favourites’ such as burgers and fishcakes, while
puds might include Early Grey and chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream. The knowledgeable wine list, selected by Geronimo’s own MW, is an accessible slate with virtually everything available
by the glass; otherwise check out the cask ales, quirky continental beers and killer bloody Marys.