SquareMeal Review of
Main man Jesse Dunford Wood has a wacky sense of humour, but he's a serious chef – no wonder fans say his all-purpose venue is "a really fun place" noted for its consistently good food, infectious vibe and generous hospitality. The comfortable, light-filled bar is a great place for breakfast and all-day snacks, but most people head to the dining room for tongue-in-cheek British food. Seasonal ideas such as red-legged partridge with clementines and game chips or herb-crusted cod with roast squash appear right on cue, although some "hearty" dishes are fixtures – especially the 'cow pie' with glazed suet-crust pastry. Elsewhere, 'back door' smoked salmon is advertised with 'that soda bread', and the reworked chicken Kiev means no more garlic butter spurting down your front. Kids have their own little menu, while grown-ups can trawl the wine list, sip cocktails or sup craft ale at the bar.