SquareMeal Review of
The sum of 26 years working in big-name kitchens, this is the ninth restaurant that chef/owner Jun Tunaka has worked in – with a shiny new Michelin star to boot. Despite a sharing concept that screams ‘on-trend’, tables are regularly full to overflowing and there’s a lot to like in dishes that are “inspired, simple and of the highest quality”. A square of punchy rabbit lasagne is the ultimate in refined comfort eating, dinky spherical oxtail croquettes are impossibly moreish, and roast quail is balanced by sharp pickled cherries, with bursts of foie gras, bacon and pistachio. Check out the ‘raw and cured’ or ‘vegetable’ sections for lighter picks, and don’t pass up the caramelised lemon tart (gleaned from Jun’s time under Marco Pierre White). The two bare-brick rooms, all gleaming tables and shiny floors, are chic and contemporary. Service is “skilled and friendly”, the wine list covers all bases, and at lunchtime you’ll bag three plates for £23.