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22 Charlotte Street
The sum of 26 years working in big-name kitchens, this is the ninth restaurant that chef/owner Jun Tunaka has worked in – with a shiny new Michelin star to boot. Despite a sharing concept that screams ‘on-trend’, tables are regularly full to overflowing and there’s a lot to like in dishes that are “inspired, simple and of the highest quality”. A square of punchy rabbit lasagne is the ultimate in refined comfort eating, dinky spherical oxtail croquettes are impossibly moreish, and roast quail is balanced by sharp pickled cherries, with bursts of foie gras, bacon and pistachio. Check out the ‘raw and cured’ or ‘vegetable’ sections for lighter picks, and don’t pass up the caramelised lemon tart (gleaned from Jun’s time under Marco Pierre White). The two bare-brick rooms, all gleaming tables and shiny floors, are chic and contemporary. Service is “skilled and friendly”, the wine list covers all bases, and at lunchtime you’ll bag three plates for £23.
Best in Fitzrovia
Best Modern European restaurants in London
22 Charlotte Street
Goodge Street Tube Station 245m
Tottenham Court Road Tube Station 395m
Contemporary Applied Arts 114m
Odeon Tottenham Court Road 167m
Mon-Sat 12N-2.30pm 5.30-10.30pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 5
A very nice eatery and a skilled and friendly team that gives good service even when it gets busy. The food is inspired, simple and of the highest quality. Lovely fish dishes, great meats and inspired vegetable dishes make for strong showing. The wine list is modern and thoughtful with lots of very reasonable, nice and interesting options. The attention to detail is what wins. The ambiance is contemporary and bit on the cold side, but the lovely staff make up for that. Upstairs and downstairs differ quite a bit with downstairs accounting for the much-mentioned "Manhattan" feel and upstairs being a bit quieter and I would suggest better for business lunches and dinners. It is the kind of place you come away from wishing the entire team much success.
Food + drink: 4
Charlotte Street on a Friday night - very busy with lots of people starting their weekend. Once inside, we were seated in the ground floor restaurant which feels relaxed and intimate. It's got a nice looking bar I'd like to try out another time. We started with the pitta (you get one piece) freshly baked with oil and herbs, two crispy oxtail croquettes, and creamy stracciatella di buffala with beetroot and walnuts. We shared these and they all went together well. Main courses of whole roast quail with foie gras and pistachios was very enjoyable with succulent juicy meat but the stuffing had quite a strong flavour of of chicken liver, and the roast rabbit with morels and sweetbreads was terrific, just tender bunny and no bones to negotiate. There's a good selection of vegetable sides with several things that appealed, but we went with Jersey Royals with smoked butter, and chargrilled asparagus with feta and shallots - it's all presented for sharing and made a great dinner. It's good to see all these seasonal items put together so well, there's lots of interesting dishes to choose from and I'd be happy to go back there anytime.
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