SquareMeal Review of
A stone’s throw from the hurly-burly of Harrods, this basement space is a reliable little haven. Part of the Levin Hotel, Metro lets its neighbouring sister site, the Capital, take care of the culinary fireworks and instead deals in dependable hotel bistro food. Not everything hits the mark – our Cornish crab cake was on the stodgy side, and though tempura haddock Is a nice idea, we’d have preferred our fish & chips in good old-fashioned beer batter, and with thick-cut chips, not fries. That said, salmon fillet with nut pesto was light and tasty, and a sticky banana bread & butter pudding a deftly handled dessert. Our major criticism is the lack of atmosphere, not helped by garish soft furnishings, but with fabulous wines courtesy of owner David Levin’s own vineyards, and extremely friendly service, Metro is a good address to have in your back pocket for trips to Knightsbridge.