SquareMeal Review of
The Mash Inn
Named after its owner Nick Mash (a greengrocer to top restaurants), this 18th-century inn specialises in flame-grilled food, foraging and fermenting. The setting is remote, atop a bucolic Chilterns hill, but the pub’s old bricks and scuffed woods blend into a newly renovated Scandi-esque room of gnarly tables, forming chef Jon Parry’s open kitchen. A locally made wood-grill sits at its centre, perhaps with beetroot smoking in embers, mackerel hanging above licked with smoke, or thick tranches of turbot and long-aged ribs of beef searing on white-hot coals. A tasting menu changes daily – we’ve tried smoked celeriac, truffle and coddled egg; shell-baked scallop with Jerusalem artichoke; and charred calçot onions, goats’ curd and Jon’s own XO sauce. Locals pop in nightly for a pint of Rebellion in the cosy bar, where own-infused vermouths and bitters are another highlight. Upstairs, four bedrooms, complete with free-standing baths and breakfast-in-bed, make staying-over hard to resist.