The Manor 333

148 Clapham Manor Street , London, SW4 6BX

1 reviews

37 International Clapham

  • The Manor Clapham London restaurant
  • The Manor Clapham London restaurant
  • The Manor London restaurant bar
  • The Manor Clapham London restaurant
  • The Manor dish
  • The Manor London restaurant bar

SquareMeal Review of The Manor

CLOSES PERMANENTLY ON NEW YEARS DAY 2017. ROBIN GILL IS SET TO REOPEN THE SITE WITH A NEW ITALIAN CONCEPT CALLED SORELLA

Compared to Robin Gill’s nearby The Dairy and Counter Culture, The Manor sets out its stall as a full-blown, smart-occasion restaurant – albeit one with scuffed wooden tables, subway tiles and tasteful graffiti around the bar. The cooking, however, is out of the same mould, so prepare for a rollercoaster ride as the kitchen shows off its theatrical skills – mackerel blow-torched at your table, ice cream served with billowing dry ice, that sort of thing. Above all, it’s the extraordinary flavours and unlikely combos that really typify Gill’s approach, with savoury umami notes showing up time and again – as in a starter of Brixham crab, dulse, miso and BBQ melon. Grains and pulses also appear in many dishes, ranging from braised pork head with olives, courgette and chickpeas to arty leftfield desserts such as Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with Comice pear and sprouted wheat. Staff are cool but competent, and the approachable, offbeat wine list caters for all tastes.

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7.0

Food & Drink: 7.0

Service: 7.0

Atmosphere: 8.0

Value: 6.0

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 3.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 3.0

David H. platinum reviewer 04 December 2016

We ate in a sister -restaurant in Bethnal Green last weekend- hadn't meant to book in the same chain in consecutive weeks , just the way it worked out. There are more similarities than differences between the two restaurants. The environments are conceptually similar; they both have helpful, friendly wait-staff, and the food is barbecue-orientated with lots of veg, not a lot of meat/fish on the dishes, and certainly at the Manor describe their offering as "small plates ". But actually its not so much small plates here. Three courses would do for many people; they don't make a big thing about sharing, and they serve the food as discrete sensibly-timed courses rather than whenever it happens to come off the cooker- which is the way we strongly prefer it. The menu is quite small, and most of it's dishes you won't easily find somewhere else. We thought the cooking was pretty good- flavoursome; textures well under control so the dishes were being rooked right, and seemingly without Paradise Garage's tendency to serve food a bit underdone. Excellent crusty brown bread and a herby butter with some powdered chicken skin over it. I had four courses , of which you could say that one was a starter/snack , one was entirely vegetable -based ( in this case centred on mushrooms) and two were smallish mains, one centred on squid; the other on pigeon. Everything was nicely cooked and looked appetising, though I should say there's an element of "dark food on dark plates" about it and a tendency to serve brownish and fairly muddy-looking sauces with several of the courses we had. Careful though- those sauces were substantially different and hid all sorts of different textures and flavours within. I'd say that the food was veg orientated, barbecue orientated (or at least a lot of the food was finished on a grill) and with quite a lot of vaguely pickled ingredients. Altogether a whole long way from concepts like a neighbourhood Italian or contemporary European. Tasty though and a different string to our bow that we're pleased to have in the sense that the more variety we have in our repertoire, the more we'll enjoy eating out. Think of it as maybe a more rustic, less sophisticated Dabbous. The bill for two, including a half litre carafe of a decent Nero d'Avola, coffee, and seven courses between us, service and of course that excellent bread, came to £90. About right we thought and my only value quibbles, as with the Paradise Garage, was an apparent high mark-up on what seemed like decent but low value wines, and a tendency for the meat/fish elements of the dishes to be a bit tiny. For example no-one has ever served me half a pigeon before! We enjoyed the meal, and I have little doubt we'll be back as it's interesting and it is change of pace. Another branch in West London would be nice.

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