SquareMeal Review of
CLOSES PERMANENTLY ON NEW YEARS DAY 2017. ROBIN GILL IS SET TO REOPEN THE SITE WITH A NEW ITALIAN CONCEPT CALLED SORELLA
Compared to Robin Gill’s nearby The Dairy and Counter Culture, The Manor sets out its stall as a full-blown, smart-occasion restaurant – albeit one with scuffed wooden tables, subway tiles and tasteful graffiti around the bar. The cooking, however, is out of the same mould, so prepare for a rollercoaster ride as the kitchen shows off its theatrical skills – mackerel blow-torched at your table, ice cream served with billowing dry ice, that sort of thing. Above all, it’s the extraordinary flavours and unlikely combos that really typify Gill’s approach, with savoury umami notes showing up time and again – as in a starter of Brixham crab, dulse, miso and BBQ melon. Grains and pulses also appear in many dishes, ranging from braised pork head with olives, courgette and chickpeas to arty leftfield desserts such as Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with Comice pear and sprouted wheat. Staff are cool but competent, and the approachable, offbeat wine list caters for all tastes.