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As its name suggests, The Magnum aims to straddle the divide between watering hole and restaurant, with a horseshoe bar at the centre of things: drinkers congregate on one side, diners assemble on the other. One menu covers both spaces, and it’s a please-all compendium of familiar ideas in the bistro/brasserie mould of baked whole Camembert, Cullen skink, charcuterie platters, burgers, rib-eye steak with hand-cut chips and so on. You can also get a few more ambitious restaurant dishes in the evening, perhaps goats’ cheese and thyme brûlée, grilled sea bass fillet with roasted Jerusalem artichokes and smoked tomato sauce or banana, toffee and custard crumble. There are some unusual ice creams too. The wine list is currently being upgraded with some additional monthly selections; otherwise expect a workmanlike assortment of beers, lagers and cocktails.
GIVEN THE DISTINCT lack of summer we’ve been having, I think this sunny(ish) day has to go down as one of the better ones, as we laud the happy drinkers outside The Magnum on Albany Street. Sarah and I had enjoyed a visit to this gastropub last year, meaning there would be added scrutiny this time around.As it happens, the same table was free, so we plonked down at the window and admired the surrounding Georgian architecture of the New Town, whilst sipping on a rather refreshing Chenin Blanc (The Veldt Range, 2014 from South Africa, priced at £18.95)...
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I enjoyed this visit to The Magnum more than the last one. I’d previously caught them at the height of a serious fad for using microherbs with everything which unbalanced their dishes. The duck wellington I sampled on this occasion was an outstanding dish that will live long in the memory.Their wine list was impressively good with an excellent selection of wines by the glass...
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