SquareMeal Review of
The Leven Restaurant
Over the years, Craythorne Hall has played host to politicians, royalty & socialites, & it still retains an air of unabashed grandeur – although this stately Edwardian hotel now comes with
all the necessary mod cons. The elegant dining room also makes a big impression with its panelling, ornate ceiling & skilfully crafted food. The cooking has French & Mediterranean roots,
although the kitchen is keen to promote Yorkshire produce – witness dishes such as new season’s lamb cutlet with braised shoulder, lamb’s sweetbreads & boulangère potatoes or locally reared
rose veal loin with black pudding purée, garden peas, apple & fondant potato. Start with a warm salad of brown crab meat, baby gem hearts, confit cherry tomato & boiled hen’s egg, &
conclude with ‘gooseberry textures’ (an assiette involving a fool, parfait & sponge).