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The sweet lass eulogised in the 18th-century love ballad that shares its name with this ancient inn was from Richmond, Yorkshire, not Surrey; but there is still much to sing about here. Twickenham Naked Ladies and owners Young’s Summer Sun are among the better brews on tap; there’s Pimm’s and fancy fizz to enjoy on the terrace or patio garden, and classy wine to be had at around £20 a bottle, including a super Sicilian Chardonnay, with several also available by the carafe. Brunch and sandwiches are available; otherwise, order from a daily changing menu of Brit pub grub classics: duck and orange terrine or meatballs in a spicy tomato sauce, say, followed by bangers and mash; Barnsley chop with fennel purée, peas, broad beans and kale; beer battered fish and chips or mac 'n' cheese and salad. Puddings might include Bakewell tart with vanilla ice cream or Eton mess. A children’s menu is welcome and popular. The only duff note, to our eyes, is a recent revamp that, exposed original wooden joists notwithstanding, sucks the soul out of an olde worlde character pub that surely lends itself more to Dickensian dark wood, cosy nooks and candelabra than a tweedy-beige bland design-by-committee brightly lit interior. Less lovely lass, more mumsy Mumsnet O’Richmond Hill?
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