SquareMeal Review of
Strategically positioned on Wandsworth Common – cheekily billed as ‘Britain’s biggest beer garden’ by owners Mitchells & Butlers – this landmark roadhouse’s terraces offer, by turn, a sunny or shady spot to slake thirsts on Adnams Mosaic or Portobello Gold, among various pours on tap. Alternatively, enjoy Aperol Spritz, Stassen Brut premium Belgian cider over ice, or chilled Pinot G from a realistically priced wine list. Inside, a mix of exposed brick, cornflower wainscot panelling, leather-look Chesterfields, industrial furniture and effective aircon are the mainstays of a recent postmodernist refit of The Hope’s split-level traditional Victorian saloon bar and family-friendly dining room. Although the pub’s kitchens are not about to nick a Michelin star from near neighbour Chez Bruce, the average Bruce and Sheila are happy enough to tuck into keen weekday deals such as Thursday’s three bar snacks – arancini, spiced chicken skewers and stuffed Padrón peppers, say – and a bottle of Merlot for a juicy £20. Otherwise, choose from a pub grub menu that might have chicken and ham hock pie with mash and seasonal veg; black bean, quinoa, mushroom and roasted red pepper burger; or pan-fried sea bass with dauphinoise potatoes and English asparagus in lemon butter sauce among its dozen or so mains; with puddings or a generous English cheeseboard to follow.