SquareMeal Review of
“Unique and pleasing on the eye...I'm a talking about the menu, the food, the whole ambience”, says a fan of The Hardwick – Stephen Terry’s much-lauded inn-with-rooms. This place is custom-built for just about any socialising opportunity (special-occasion or otherwise): there’s plenty for those who enjoy wallowing in oak-beamed pubby rusticity, while others feel right at home amid the varnished wood furnishings and affluent leather sofas. The kitchen thinks big when it comes to local sourcing and bullish contemporary flavours, but also satisfies diehards who get their kicks from plates of duck hash or beer-battered haddock with skinny chips. Overall, the emphasis is on gutsy “high-end” cooking and flashy presentation without prissiness – as in diver-caught Orkney scallops and braised octopus with chorizo, broad beans and tomato, crispy shoulder and ragoût of Brecon lamb or roast monkfish with vegetable soffritto and saffron risotto. To finish, check out the ripe Welsh cheeses or take your cue from the calendar with, say, sourdough summer pudding. Look to the bar for real ales or peruse the substantial list of reasonably priced wines.