SquareMeal Review of
The Gurnard's Head
Sitting in a beautiful wild landscape on the coast road to Land’s End, this sister restaurant to the Felin Fach Griffin
certainly comes close to the foodie dream of stumbling upon an undiscovered gem in the middle of nowhere. Open fires, slouchy sofas and plain wood tables create a relaxed atmosphere in the dining
room, while a firm commitment to using local produce and a flair for fresh and robust flavours take centre stage in the ambitious kitchen. The menu is constantly tweaked to promote seasonal
ingredients, and diners are rewarded with such dishes as salt whiting brandade with a poached duck egg, followed by roast pollack, braised fennel, black mustard leaf and saffron aioli, or beef
shin in ale, mashed potato and thyme dumplings, with gorse flower and honey buttermilk pudding for afters. The drinks offering includes local ales, and there’s a quirky, thoughtful wine list.
Former Pub List Of The Year
The Gurnard’s Head 100-bin wine
list is a perfect, easily navigable example, with neither fat nor unnecessary indulgence, yet plenty of carefully selected, interesting listings. The by-the-glass wines all feature a short,
enthusiastic tasting note that captures the wine’s essence quickly and then stops – no 100-word rambles or ‘wannabe writer’ essays – something a lot of restaurants could learn from.