SquareMeal Review of
The Guinea Grill
A microcosm of vintage Mayfair ringing with claret-fuelled guffaws, The Guinea Grill nestles behind a Young’s pub frontage in the clubbiest of rooms, all clustered white-clothed tables, tartan carpets, wine cabinets and prints of ruddy-faced soldiers in a wood-panelled wrapper. A green-coated doorman and waiters in black waistcoats play their ever-smiling parts, while a lone chef tends the furiously hot grill behind displays of prime, dry-aged fillets, rib-eyes and rumps from the Scotch Beef Club – it’s all very “old school”. The kitchen also sends out acclaimed suet-crusted pies by the score, as well as more delicate dishes such as crayfish and crab cocktail, smoked Gressingham duck or grilled Dover sole, while big helpings of suitably calorific cheesecake or fruit crumble may necessitate some belt loosening. “Just the tonic on a rainy Mayfair night”, concluded one fan.