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The owners of the nearby Grafton have grabbed this previously scruffy boozer by the scruff of its neck, restoring the pub to its 1940s heyday. Colourful punters of a seemingly similar vintage now rub shoulders with new mums and nouveau boho creatives, packing away the Pinot from a selection of wines on tap. At the handsome stripped-wood Victorian bar, lovely London ales from Fourpure, Truman’s, Camden and Hackney breweries figure among the draught beers and ciders. Cocktails include Spritzes, Negronis and frozen Margaritas (£7). There’s also a beer garden and a bottle shop (announced by a splendid old sign). Snack on Dingley Dell sausage rolls, toasties or charcuterie boards, or make a meal of it starting with scallops, apple, cucumber and crispy seaweed (£9), or smoked tongue with pickled red onion. Mains might include Barnsley chop with spring onion rösti, or vegetable risotto, then knickerbocker glory makes a glorious finale.
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