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Named after the Gibson Girl, the embodiment of 1900s American beauty as imagined by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson, this bijou lovely inhabits a converted former alehouse with a gorgeous belle époque exterior. Gibson is also the name given to a variant of the Dry Martini, served here with a home-pickled silverskin onion. After stints at Nightjar and The Connaught, the two owners have let their imaginations run loose, coming up with a retro list that is big on fashion-forward fixes fuelled by ingredients that take a walk on the wild side: kimchi bamboo shoots, smoked pesto, tobacco gum ketchup, purple cabbage cordial, fermented rye-bread ‘kvass’ and forest bee skeleton are not the stuff of your local high-street bar. Likewise, Grand Orient Express (smoke-dried lychee-infused Glenfiddich 12-year-old, barley tea, carob, galangal, lemon, custard apple and Korean bulgogi marinade) is no bog-standard whisky sour.
There’s very little point in going to Hill & Szrok if you don’t eat meat. They started as a Butchery and cookshop in Broadway market and their pub is pretty much an excuse to show off the meat they butcher. Having said that, there are a few sides which are just as good to eat as the meat.The saut&ed potatoes were gorgeously golden discs of salty crunchiness and soft potato inside. Hispi cabbage which seems to be flaunting itself all over town on many a menu was as good here as I’ve had elsewhere – sprinkled with chilli to liven it up and apparently anchovy was also somehow involved although I couldn’t...
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