SquareMeal Review of
The Gate Marylebone
The owners of this small vegetarian chain originally based its homely style and eclectic flavours on the cooking they grew up with: a blend of Indian, Arabic and Jewish cuisines. 25 years on however, the menu offers veggie takes on dishes from around the world – from Mexican tortillas or truffled mushroom risotto, to Thai green curry. Intense flavours abound: citrusy ponzu offsets the richness of the miso-glazed aubergine; smoky paprika sauce in the shakshuka is spooned straight from the pan. The dining rooms blend sharp, minimalist design with lots of light and a bustling, open feel. Service is generally “excellent” throughout and the vegetarian wine list includes a host of competitively priced natural, biodynamic and organic bottles. Ironically, it’s a carnivorous customer who best nails The Gate’s all-round appeal: it offers “vegetarian food that will please the most discerning meat-lovers”.