The Garrick Restaurant

Hendon Hall, Ashley Lane , London, NW4 1HF

SquareMeal Review of The Garrick Restaurant

Barring some decent ethnic eateries, Hendon isn’t renowned for its dining scene. It does, however, have one restaurant that should show up on foodie radars. The Garrick is stashed inside a smart hotel, & while the dining room might look classical (soft lighting, starched linen, polished cutlery), there are some contemporary minds in the kitchen. A terrine of ham hock might be teamed with pineapple salsa & pickled quails’ eggs, while roast loin & slow-cooked belly of pork get a pick-me-up from carrot & star anise purée. Sides are equally inspired – think caramelised cauliflower – & puds don’t lose momentum, as witnessed in a smooth peanut brûlée with dark chocolate sorbet. Market menus (£24.50/30 for two/three courses) take advantage of seasonal produce. The wine list too is a well-thought-through affair.

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5.0

Food & Drink: 7.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 3.0

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 2.0

Atmosphere: 1.0

Value: 1.0

K.N. 19 February 2012

The Garrick restaurant is in a big well lit room and has the feel of a hotel restaurant – function over style. The lighting and choice of music were a bit intrusive. The menu is well structured with several appetising options. We weren't given a wine list on arriving, so we assumed the “by the glass” wine list on the food menu was the wine list (until we were given the wine list after our main course, at which point it was a little late to be ordering a whole bottle). The food was good, by and large. My wife's scallops and pork belly starter was excellent; I had a terrine which was pretty good but a bit one-dimensional. My wife had the beef wellington for her main course, which was overpowered by aniseed, but I had the venison and thought it was well cooked and nicely balanced. We never received one of our side orders and had to ask for that to be removed from the bill and the waiting staff had to be summoned from time to time for new courses/wine. Dessert (chocolate delice with pistachio ice-cream) was excellent. The bill total for 2 people, 3 courses was £126 without a tip, which felt heavy-handed considering we only had 3 glasses of wine. Overall, good food, but short on ambience and value for money.

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