SquareMeal Review of
The Fentiman Arms
Handily located for The Oval, ‘The Fenny Arms’ is a busy backstreet Victorian boozer. The place was revamped in autumn 2016 by owners Geronimo Inns (a division of Young’s), leaving it with a brighter interior modelled on a ‘back to school’ theme. There’s a jolly ground-floor bar and snug, plus a further bar upstairs – toasty with an open fireplace – serving the Refectory dining room. Sample a pint from the craft-brew boys (Beavertown, Partizan, Fourpure) or Wimbledon Brewery’s spicy, floral Tower, on tap. Haggis Scotch eggs are hard to resist as an accompanying snack, ditto the salmon and cream cheese bagels. In summer, head for the sunny garden (with barbecue) and sip an elegant Sancerre; on winter morns, warm the cockles with spicy Marys or mulled wine before digging into a Sunday roast. Alternatively, choose superior ‘school dinner’ grub such as moist, meaty shoulder of lamb hotpot followed by jam roly-poly.