SquareMeal Review of
The Fat of the Land
Following the success of the Queen’s Head & Artichoke and the Norfolk Arms, gastropub pioneers Michael Kittos and Tony Wolfe have moved into Marylebone for their third venture. What was the
grand old Duke of York pub has been transformed into The Fat of the Land – a ‘refreshing’, low-key kind of place with a concrete-topped bar serving Spanish beers, regional wines, sangria and
sherries, plus a more intimate upstairs dining room for tapas and raciones. Standouts have included a textbook rendition of ‘pa amb tomaquet’ (garlicky toasted bread with tomato), baby squid with
black ink, and manchego cheese soaked in red wine, but the kitchen can also knock out bigger plates of cod cheeks al pil-pil or grilled rump of organic Welsh lamb with braised baby onions and bone
marrow. To finish, nibble some marzipan ‘cannellet’ cookies with a glass of Moscatel.