SquareMeal Review of
New from Adventure Bars (in Clapham Junction, Clapham High Street and Covent Garden) comes this ambitious, upmarket sister to the nearby Bedford Street lounge. The layout of the penumbral basement warren will be familiar to anyone who knew it as Earlham Street Clubhouse. Out goes 1950s Americana, in comes a pale rendition of an 1890s masonic lodge supposedly frequented by mythical villain ‘Baron Von Took’, the ‘Escapologist’. Perversely, the cocktail list fails to follow the bar’s Victorian secret-society trope, preferring later inventions: Zombie, Sidecar, Mai Tai and Porn Star Martini. You’ll be lucky to escape from here with loose change after ordering a round of ‘premium cocktails’ – among which, relatively inexpensive Casco Viejo Tequila forms the base of Mexican Butterfly (a minty, oversweet Margarita costing more than £12 including service). Cocktail packages for parties of between two and 20 are £100-1500 and include bubbles, shooters, spirits and mixers, plus tasty 12-inch pizzas that are also available individually for £12.