Its original name readopted, this 1890s Clapton survivor will feel familiar to those who knew it pre-2018 as The Bonneville. The ownership remains the same, as generally does the look of the dimly lit bar and dining room: all Dickensian decrepitude. Cocktails such as El Chapo (a mezcal, Tequila and ginger Margarita), or (vodka) Grapefruit Julep are fair – and a dozen craft-beer worthies will suit most tastes. To eat, order bar snacks of wild boar Scotch egg with piccalilli, or Titanic stout and Westcombe Cheddar Welsh rarebit. Alternatively, tuck into keenly priced British pub grub such as cod cheeks in plump fried puffs with chips. Our pudding of light, creamy, rhubarb crumble was slightly bland, but a chestnut and squash nut roast, and perfectly pink shorthorn beef, were stars of the bottomless Sunday roast menu.