SquareMeal Review of
The Earl Derby
Drop into this solid, 19th-century landmark roadhouse (the Golden Egg now returned to its original name) and you’ll find English cask ales, Californian Sierra Nevada, Bavarian Weissbeir, Czech
Budvar and fancy bottles from Belgium, Mexico and Italy. What you probably won’t find, slap bang in the heart of famously Irish Kilburn, is a pint of Guinness. Following a less-than-convincing
refurb, modish design ideas now sit awkwardly under lugubrious jet-black ceilings, while fake vines trail across the back bar. As for the food, expect a fairly predictable please-all mix ranging
from cod and chips, pies or sausage and mash to pork and chorizo burgers or gnocchi with asparagus, peas, broad beans, spinach and mushrooms. Superior sandwiches appear at lunchtime, and there are
roasts on Sundays for those who want them.