SquareMeal Review of
The Duke of Sussex
Convenient for Waterloo Station, this fine example of a 1920s local – a typical boozer from long-defunct London brewers Truman, Hanbury & Buxton – has recently been made over by new owners Hippo Inns. It now sports shabby-chic recycled furniture and, in the cosy rear dining room, fascinating framed newspaper reports of long-forgotten front-page splashes. The bar stocks various craft keg and cask ales such as Southwark Bermondsey Best and, coming full circle, Truman’s Zephyr (the brand name having been bought by two Hackney Wick brew-meisters), plus over 20 wines by the glass at fair prices. To eat, old-school bar snacks are listed alongside the likes of fish goujons and tartare sauce, or filled wraps of rump steak, shallots and horseradish cream. Otherwise, plump for brunch, or go for dinner of half a chicken from the charcoal spit, or a fried chickpea burger. A broad front terrace is popular in warm weather.