SquareMeal Review of
The Don Restaurant
Head chef Frederick Forster (ex-Gavroche and Ritz) has breathed new life into this atmospherically located City stalwart, which for all its modern minimalism (the dining room is impressively hung with John Hoyland’s abstract artwork) opened way back in 2001. To start, rabbit lasagne has firm layers of al dente pasta sitting in a diverting velouté of roasted cep, or there is a beautifully presented arrangement of white and brown crab meat to spoon onto blinis with caviar. Grouse in season is beautifully flavoured, brilliantly cooked and thoughtfully de-boned by the kitchen, its liver made into a silky smooth parfait, a jug of fabulous bread sauce on the side. A blackberry soufflé the colour of a dark rose offers similar proof that Forster knows how to balance modern luxury with traditional comfort, while widely spaced tables and smooth, polite service reassure City diners that they’re in safe hands. The superior wine list is packed with port, sherry and Madeira, alongside bottles from the owners’ Kiwi vineyard Trinity Hill (they also own The Bleeding Heart in Farringdon). For a less formal experience, the downstairs bistro has steak tartare and coq au vin, while the bar serves 30 wines by the glass alongside Adnams beer and croque monsieurs; you can drop in for breakfast, too.
The Don Restaurant is recommended for
2/3 courses £21/£25
Maximum of 6 diners. Includes Tax, excludes service.