SquareMeal Review of
The Dining Room at 28 Queen Street
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is a members’ club dedicated to rare, single-cask Scotch, with venues in London, Leith and Edinburgh. At its Queen Street premises in the Scottish capital, the Kaleidoscope whisky bar/shop is bolstered by a restaurant open to allcomers. Now occupying the first floor of the refurbished Georgian townhouse, this simple, elegant room is the setting for some capably crafted, Franco-European food based on Scottish ingredients. Pick from the menu du jour or the carte, which might feature flame-grilled mackerel with golden beetroot and elderflower consommé, ahead of Gartmorn Farm chicken with lovage and wild mushrooms or lamb loin and flank with sheep’s yoghurt and potato purée, salt-baked vegetables and pickled wild garlic bulbs. To finish, rum baba with chilled apricot soup sounds intriguing. Alternatively, book the Charles Heidsieck Champagne Table for a special five-course tasting menu. If the fabulous whisky selection doesn’t appeal, there’s also an extensive wine list, with plenty by the glass.