SquareMeal Review of
The Diner Gloucester Road
As its up-front moniker suggests, this chain re-imagines the classic American diner of a million movie scenes through a London lens, with red vinyl booths, vintage car pictures and booming 60s’
music offset by dim lighting. The large menu majors on US staples such as hefty hot dogs, enticing burgers and all-day breakfasts, in addition to roadside classics such as meat loaf and mash.
Burgers are generously thick, but lack the tender and juicy ‘wow’ factor; comforting sides, however, cannot be missed – try gooey chilli-cheese fries or crisp beer-battered onion rings. Warm pecan
pie with whipped cream ends an inevitably calorific meal on a high. For drinks, look to the full-on cocktail bar and sizeable wine list. The Diner recreates the archetypal experience lovingly,
apart from the service: the occasional ‘have a nice day’ would go a long way.