SquareMeal Review of
The Devonshire Balham
Refurbished in 2016, this buffed-up gin palace dates from the 1880s and its handsome period details – stained glass, etched mirrors and a haute Victorian back bar – are a joy to behold. An open family-friendly dining room to the rear is new, but has been gussied up like an Edwardian country kitchen. We recommend getting toasty by the fire with a draught ale from owners Young’s or a Fourpure brew. Alternatively, try a Rhubarb Negroni or Buttered Bourbon Sour. Chilled wines (Sicilian Chardonnay, £19.50) are sunny-day sips to enjoy in a vast garden that will host a Burgershack from summer 2017. But there’s plenty to munch on in the meantime: charcuterie or cheese boards; old-school bar snacks; brunches (mac & cheese toasties, perhaps) and full meals. A three-courser might begin with Brixham crab and Lincolnshire Poacher gratin followed by pork chop with wild mushrooms and then Earl Grey and date pudding.