SquareMeal Review of
The Crown Battersea
Businesses come and go on Lavender Hill, but The Crown endures. It was originally a hotel, and upper floors of the present (1870s) building still offer bargain digs; hence an eclectic mix of backpackers and young locals populates the bar. The newly refurbished ground floor sports a rather gauche mixture of styles: Victoriana, art-nouveau pendant lights, post-industrial canteen, stripped-back hipster joint and 1950s coffee lounge. What hasn’t changed is the open kitchen’s commitment to keenly priced burgers, meaty and not, with hash browns or salad. Fries are loaded with the likes of pulled pork, chipotle sauce, or hummus and beetroot ketchup, and an all-day brunch is served in the gritty urban backyard. Draught Titanic Plum Porter and Belleville Picnic IPA head a clutch of craft brews, while Doghouse Renegade is among three local gins. At the weekly juke-joint revival night, order barrel-aged Old Fashioned or Aperol Spritz.
The Crown Battersea is recommended for