SquareMeal Review of
The Colton Arms
The Colton Arms come courtesy of Hippo Inns, a gastropub operator co-owned by Rupert Clevely, who founded Geronimo Inns in the 1990s. Clevely has always had an acute eye for sites with potential, design and wholesome cooking, and so it proves at what was a neglected West Ken boozer where a dramatic makeover has won over the smart clientele of local gentrification. The quirky interior includes carved wooden panels, stuffed birds, antique and modern paintings, leather seats and rich textiles, masses of flowers and glass doors leading to a sheltered garden. The small menu features starters such as ham hock and prune terrine, cheese soufflé, homemade soups and steak tartare as well as sandwiches and Scotch egg with mustard. Mains include wild boar sausage with mash and gravy, succulent wild mushroom tortellini with truffle and Parmesan, salmon and lentils and a comforting root vegetable hash topped with poached egg and gallons of hollandaise. There’s treacle tart with clotted cream, fruit crumble and custard, and, a nice touch, cheese of the week. Drink beer or lager, wine or the hard stuff – or builder’s tea that comes in a sweetly decorated pot.