The Coach 22

3 West Street , Marlow, SL7 2LS

1 reviews

35 Gastropub Buckinghamshire

  • Opening weekend at The Coach, Marlow
  • The Coach restaurant Marlow Buckinghamshire
  • The Coach restaurant Marlow Buckinghamshire
  • The Coach restaurant Marlow Buckinghamshire

SquareMeal Review of The Coach

In stark contrast to the nearby Hand & Flowers, Tom Kerridge’s Coach conversion is an eminently user-friendly, no-bookings all-day boozer-cum-eatery with a terrific atmosphere and capable staff. This compact, cosy place puts the bar centre stage, with music playing, comfy leather banquettes and bags of foodie appeal – thanks to Kerridge’s sidekick Nick Beardshaw. Breakfast ‘dogs’, kippers and kedgeree do the business first thing in the morning, while the full menu offers ‘small plates’ with the option of ‘meat’ or ‘no meat’. Choose the former and you’re in the world of the rotisserie, with competition from the likes of the Coach burger or venison chilli with red wine, chocolate and toasted rice cream; choose the latter and you could have Caesar salad, moules marinière or salt cod Scotch eggs with red pepper sauce. For ‘sweet’, check out the hot chocolate and peanut tart. Grazing plates, cakes and nibbles are available throughout the day, to go with pints of ale and a concise list of quaffable wines by the glass. The award of a Michelin star is testament to the Coach’s class.


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9.0

Food & Drink: 8.0

Service: 9.0

Atmosphere: 9.0

Value: 8.0

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

Foodess platinum reviewer 13 January 2015

Music (at just the right level) makes a contrast in atmosphere from Mr K's more trad’ pub across the road, where decibels escalate from diners' voices alone when service is in full swing. Booking in advance and deciding what cuisine we might fancy months ahead has prompted us to abandon H & F where we had been dining for years, often as walk-ins. So already being familiar with the food there, I was thrilled to find that the compact and cosy 'Coach has plenty of food appeal and a concise choice of wine, all available by the glass. Centre stage is the bar where you can eat and see the open rotisserie, but we quickly settled into a comfortable leather banquette, him supping beer and me a delicious English white called Limney which delivered exactly the flavours I had asked the female head waitress for, whilst we eagerly awaited our food. I skipped starter but forced (I lie) to sample the chicken confit terrine; in a word : divine. All plates are small even the roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, which importantly we were told to expect, so we ordered plenty of sides. In excitement I went a bit off-piste being unable to resist the potato boulangere cooked in meat juices, which wouldn’t have sat comfortably with my delicate plaice with shrimps and cavolo nero. Having finished my fish I tucked into the rich, wonderfully wintry flavoured boulangere with some hispy cabbage and celeriac which was vying for attention having been spit roast then drenched in truffle – lush as Mr K would say. The roast beef looked incredibly tender and soon disappeared, apparently leaving enough space for a dessert of whisky and rye, a type of rye flour cake soaked in alcohol with a blob of cream which didn’t quite deliver. Oddly, I ordered more potato in the form of fat chips with bernaise sauce, which even the cochon in me failed to finish. All done for £100 including water, beer and 5 glasses of wine. On my wish list for next time is an eye-catching chilli dish of Venison with Toasted Rice Cream, Red Wine and Chocolate, so we soon need to catch The Coach before ridiculous queues start forming.

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