SquareMeal Review of
In stark contrast to the nearby Hand & Flowers, Tom Kerridge’s Coach conversion is an eminently user-friendly, no-bookings all-day boozer-cum-eatery with a terrific atmosphere and capable staff. This compact, cosy place puts the bar centre stage, with music playing, comfy leather banquettes and bags of foodie appeal – thanks to Kerridge’s sidekick Nick Beardshaw. Breakfast ‘dogs’, kippers and kedgeree do the business first thing in the morning, while the full menu offers ‘small plates’ with the option of ‘meat’ or ‘no meat’. Choose the former and you’re in the world of the rotisserie, with competition from the likes of the Coach burger or venison chilli with red wine, chocolate and toasted rice cream; choose the latter and you could have Caesar salad, moules marinière or salt cod Scotch eggs with red pepper sauce. For ‘sweet’, check out the hot chocolate and peanut tart. Grazing plates, cakes and nibbles are available throughout the day, to go with pints of ale and a concise list of quaffable wines by the glass. The award of a Michelin star is testament to the Coach’s class.