SquareMeal Review of
The Chimney House
The Chimney House quietly goes about its business on a residential street away from the hubbub of the city centre, but don’t mistake a low profile for a lack of ambition. Chef and owner Charlie Brookman’s cooking leaves many of Brighton’s more central restaurants in the shade thanks to his skilful use of foraged ingredients and lesser-known meat cuts. Start with a croquette of tender braised pig’s head with haws, hazelnuts and crunchy pig’s ears, followed by duck leg, heart and liver, balanced by sweet Jerusalem artichoke purée. The vegetarian tasting plate is a tour de force of technique and creativity: from carrots cooked in whey, to homemade cottage cheese and pine-flower gel. Sussex Gold is the pick of the ales, best accompanied by pork scratchings that are puffed up like oversized prawn crackers. The excellent sourdough can be bought by the loaf at the bar to take away.