SquareMeal Review of
The Cheese Bar
Street-food trader The Cheese Truck has graduated to this slick, stylish and fun restaurant, which is the work of founder Mathew Carver. Diners perch on a U-shaped marble countertop (reservations for four or more only), sipping on craft beers and wines to stem the inevitable lactose tide. The short, cheese-centric menu features some great dishes, including supremely gooey mozzarella sticks, served with a marinara dipping sauce. The four-cheese rotelle (essentially posh mac ‘n’ cheese) also impresses, laden with thick, moreish helpings of the good stuff. Strangely, there are just two wines to choose from, while not every dish hits the mark. Smoked sausage is a bad fit for its fondue pairing, while the blue cheese ice cream is an unappetising step too far. We’d recommend keeping things light, rather than going for a full three courses – it turns out you can have too much of a good thing. With its hip staff, Instagram-friendly dishes and prime tourist location, we’re sure Carver’s cheese-machine will thrive beyond the momentum of its launch buzz.