SquareMeal Review of
Elegant, and ageless, The Cavendish looks as though it’s been part of the Marylebone fabric for decades, but in fact it’s brand new on the block. The room has the full brasserie treatment, complete with banquette booths and full skirted white clothed tables, black and white dressed staff and plenty of busy taps on the bar. Alfonso Lillo (one of the exclusive alumni from the Costa Brava’s gastro heavyweight El Bulli), is in charge of the kitchen, and though there’s not much in the way of high end molecular gastronomy on the menu, he does a good turn in smoked cauliflower puree which accompanies roast scallops, and Iberian pork shoulder with grilled asparagus and smoked garlic. Much here, though, isn't cooked – there’s a big selection of caviars, oysters and ceviches which tend to hike up the prices. A very decent wine list and a cigar list for whiling away the afternoon or evening complete the picture.