SquareMeal Review of
The Camberwell Arms
Fans of Southwark’s renowned Anchor & Hope and its spin-off The Canton Arms will find many similarities at this handsome Camberwell boozer from the same stable. The ox-blood walls, bistro chairs and dishes to share (rib of South Devon beef, say, or spit-roast chicken for two or four) could have been lifted from its elder siblings, along with the accessible, reasonably priced wine list. But this is no identikit chain, so the kitchen has produced its own take on the gutsy cooking for which the group is known – adding a touch of New York deli (house-smoked pastrami and pickles), the American South (barbecue chicken wings) and even North Africa (punchy house-produced goat merguez matched with spiced aubergine, bulgur wheat and garlic yoghurt). At lunchtime, you’ll find a pared-down version of the evening menu, though there’s usually a hearty pie for two to share. A first-floor cocktail bar adds drinks appeal.