SquareMeal Review of
The Burlington Restaurant at Devonshire Arms
The sumptuous Devonshire Arms in Lower Wharfedale cossets its guests from the moment tyres crunch on gravel. Fine dining takes place in the plush Burlington Restaurant, and the kitchen’s endeavours are characterised by complex, highly technical work and intense flavours. Whether you choose the carte or the “excellent” tasting menu, you can expect bright modern ideas – think roast scallop with truffle, turnip and chicken or salt-aged Yorkshire beef with oxtail celeriac and dripping. Pickings from the kitchen garden make a valuable contribution too, as in heirloom beetroot with smoked eel, horseradish and nasturtium or turbot with carrot, lettuce and lobster cream. There’s also plenty of élan and artistry when it comes to desserts such as Tomlinson’s rhubarb with yoghurt, almond and white chocolate or a take on Arctic roll involving lemon, blueberry and sloe gin. The culinary fireworks are underpinned by a world-class wine cellar with some 30,000 bottles – zooming up to five figures for the bonus schemers. “Superb staff and service” seal the deal.