SquareMeal Review of
The Brasserie at The Cumberland
To find this business-friendly Brasserie, you need to traverse the ultra-modern lobby of the Cumberland hotel. Once inside, expect plenty of designer features including a wood-slatted ceiling,
oversized candelabras and a chilled Ibiza soundtrack – making the place well suited to corporate get-togethers. Following the recent departure of Gary Rhodes, the kitchen has shrugged off most of
its British influences and it now delivering broadly based European cooking. Grills, pastas and risottos sit alongside the likes of coquilles St Jacques, cured meats with Provençal vegetable salad
or confit duck with braised red cabbage, cranberries and star-anise jus. To finish, try chocolate and coffee pot with salted caramel, milk foam and chocolate sorbet or wait 15 minutes for a fruity
soufflé. ‘Wines of the season’ are good-value alternatives to the well-spread international list, which offers plenty by the glass.