SquareMeal Review of
The Brackenbury Wine Rooms
A Hammersmith diamond back in the day, The Brackenbury has been dusted off and resurrected following an unfruitful hiatus. The name remains the same, but there’s a new team at the helm in the shape of Ossie Gray (ex-manager at The River Café) and two chefs with impressive CVs (think Kensington Place, The Providores etc). Some visitors (including ourselves) have found the music-free dining room rather “sparse” and underwhelming, but fans insist it’s worth the effort because the service and food are “exceptional”. Seasonal ideas and Med-influenced flavours loom large on the menu, with lots of salads on show, plus an inventory of dishes running from cuttlefish with chorizo, chickpeas, parsley and paprika or twice-baked Tunworth cheese and spinach soufflé to braised veal cheek with risotto milanese, bone marrow and gremolata. Prices may be higher than you might expect from a neighbourhood gaff, but those looking to watch the pennies can go for the affordable three-course set lunch.