SquareMeal Review of
Run as a boozer since 1884, this Marylebone watering hole now leads something of a double life under the stewardship of owner/restaurateur Claudio Pulze. “Rough drinkers” mingle with “posh-ish lunchers” in a dark room with flock wallpaper, green banquettes, shelves laden with maritime knick-knacks and an unusual curved corner bar. Food-wise, the international menu throws up the odd surprise such as marinated salmon with red chicory and carasau (Sardinian flatbread) alongside more obvious gastropub choices including salads, steaks and a chorizo burger with crispy onion rings, Red Leicester cheese and hand-cut skin-on fries. Blackboard specials are not quite the norm, but not too scary either – think chicken paillard with radish salad. Drinkers satisfy their cravings with Meantime brews on tap (Pilsner, LPA, stout), bottles of cerveza, sherry and some enterprising wines, including exclusive Eiswein.